R3men
Graphite Heated Bed For Creality K1 Max
Graphite Heated Bed For Creality K1 Max
Out of stock
Not in stock? Contact us to pre-order
Couldn't load pickup availability
Graphite heatbed Bed for Creality K1 Max 3D printers
- No warping: bed stays super flat at 120C as well as at 60C. No need to heatsink the bed for long time like aluminum beds.
- Maximum bed temperature up to 130C compared to 105C stock bed.
- Over 30% lighter than aluminum.
- Works with Eddy current sensors (Cartographer, Beacon, BTT Eddy).
Included:
- Pre-assembled Graphite Bed (with 1000W heater, magnet, grounding wire)
- 4x M4 Bolts and nuts
-
4x Springs (do not use with stock bed probe)
- 4x Metal spacers (for stock bed probe)
Share








Upgrade results from buyers after sanding down the magnet:

Advantages:
-
Zero warping
These beds are much flatter than the stock ones and the main difference is that they keep the same shape at any temperature. These beds have been tested for over half a year at temps from 50C to 130C.
That means: no heat soaking, no layer issues and first layer issues caused by bed warping.
-
130C Bed Temperature
These beds can be heated up to 130C, compared to 105 stock bed which warps like crazy over 100C. Heater has inbuilt 150C self-recovery switch for safety. You can use 115-120C bed temperature for better first layer adhesion and to reduce warping. Also, an add bed fans to help with chamber heating.
Useful information:
-
Graphite Flatness
Every single graphite plate is tested for flatness with precision tools. All graphite plates are in the 0.1mm flatness range.
-
Bed Flatness
The main advantage of this bed is zero warping. You don't need to waste time heat soaking the bed to avoid related print issues.
The bed mesh depends on many things: z assembly, bed plate, bed magnet,
gantry, probe, build plate etc. With all these factors you may have
from 0.1 up to 0.5mm flatness mesh. -
Flat mesh ≠ Perfect first layer
Super flat mesh doesn't mean you get perfect first layer. And the other way around, not perfectly flat mesh doesn't mean you can't have a perfect first layer. We have a printer with 0.07mm range mesh and the first layer is terrible, because of the twisted gantry. To fix your issues with first layer we suggest using Axis Twist Compensation on both X and Y
-
Tested with Cartographer Probe
Every single bed was tested and meshed with Cartographer probe after assembly, which is much more accurate than stock PRTouch. All meshes are 0.1-0.25mm flatness.
But, again, mesh depends on your probe and your gantry!
Some of our testers got 0.25-0.35mm meshes after installation, but the magnet can be sanded to get better results.
-
Magnet is the issue
The magnets that are used in 3D printer are imperfect. the thickness of the
magnet with the adhesive layer may vary withing 0.4mm range (+-0.2mm).
Fortunately, these magnets can be sanded. Use this kind of sponge blocks grid
180-240 to sand off any peaks on the mesh. With this trick our buyers could get
their mesh from 0.44mm range down to 0.09mm. -
Mount it right
If you use the stock PRTouch bed probe then use the stock metal spacers to mount the bed. For other probes you may use springs with bed knobs which allow you to use the "Screw Tilt Adjust" for easy bed leveling.
Installation Instructions:
Follow the official Creality video with a few different steps below

220V Connection:
1. Connect 2 white wires to COM and 220B slots on SSR. Connect the yellow grounding wire (grounding wire has a ring terminal).
2. Isolate with tape and DO NOT connect the 110v yellow wire.
3. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

110V Connection:
1. Connect 110v yellow wire (fork teminal) to COM slot, connect 2 white wires together to 110B slot on SSR. Connect the yellow grounding wire (grounding wire has a ring terminal).
2. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

Rigid bed mounts
If you use stock bed probe (PRTouch) then use metal standoffs with M4 bolts.

Springs and knobs
If you use cartographer or other Eddy sensor bed probes, then you may use springs with M4 bolts with bed knobs for easy bed leveling using screw tilt adjust. You may buy the bed knobs or print the knobs from Printables.

Thermistor type
You need to make changes in printer.cfg file. Find heater_bed section and change senosr type to "sensore_type: Generic 3950".
You may change the max_temp to 130 to be able to heat up the bed to higher temperatures.

Temperature Error
If you see negative temperature readings and printer throws temperature errors, that means that you did not change the thermistor type in the config file. See the previous step.

PID Calibration
The heater is more powerful than the stock heater. You need to run PID calibration in console by copy/pasting the command: “PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=70”. Then SAVE and restart

Need help?
If you have question and/or need help, please, join D3vil Design Discord. We have lots of great people! You can find help, 3D printer mods and learn a lot about 3D printers and printing.