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Graphite Heated Bed For Creality K2 Plus

Graphite Heated Bed For Creality K2 Plus

Regular price $213.00 AUD
Regular price $292.00 AUD Sale price $213.00 AUD
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Low stock: 8 left

PRE-ORDER! Shipping after June 1!

Pre-assembled Graphite Heatbed for Creality K2 Plus 3D printers

  • No warping: bed stays super flat at 120C as well as at 60C. No need to heatsink the bed for long time like aluminum beds.
  • Heats ~40% faster than the stock bed.
  • Maximum bed temperature up to 130C compared to 105C stock bed.
  • 1000W Heater has an inbuilt 150C self-recovery thermal switch for safety.
  • Works with Eddy current sensors (Cartographer, Beacon, BTT Eddy).

    Included:
  • Pre-assembled Graphite Bed (with 1000W heater, magnet, grounding wire)
  • 4x M4 Bolts and nuts
  • 4x Springs (do not use with stock PRTouch probe!)
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Upgrade results from buyers:

  • Zero warping

    These beds are much flatter than the stock ones and the main difference is that they keep the same shape at any temperature. These beds have been tested for over half a year at temps from 50C to 130C.

    That means: no heat soaking, no layer issues and first layer issues caused by bed warping.

  • Fast heating

    Graphite heats faster than aluminum and these beds come with 1000W heater vs stock 800W. So the heating time is 35-40% faster. And no need to heat soak, so you can start printing sooner than ever.

  • 130C Bed Temperature

    These beds can be heated up to 130C, compared to 105 stock bed which warps like crazy over 100C. Heater has inbuilt 150C self-recovery switch for safety. You can use 115-120C bed temperature for better first layer adhesion and to reduce warping. Also, an add bed fans to help with chamber heating.

  • Graphite Flatness

    Every single graphite plate is tested for flatness with precision tools. All graphite plates are in the 0.1mm flatness range.

  • Bed Flatness

    The main advantage of this bed is zero warping. You don't need to waste time heat soaking the bed to avoid related print issues.

    The bed mesh depends on many things: z assembly, bed plate, bed magnet,
    gantry, probe, build plate etc. With all these factors you may have
    from 0.1 up to 0.5mm flatness mesh.

  • Flat mesh ≠ Perfect first layer

    Super flat mesh doesn't mean you get perfect first layer. And the other way around, not perfectly flat mesh doesn't mean you can't have a perfect first layer. We have a printer with 0.07mm range mesh and the first layer is terrible, because of the twisted gantry. To fix your issues with first layer we suggest using Axis Twist Compensation on both X and Y

  • Tested with Cartographer Probe

    Every single bed was tested and meshed with Cartographer probe after assembly, which is much more accurate than stock PRTouch. All meshes are 0.1-0.25mm flatness.

    But, again, mesh depends on your probe and your gantry!

    Some of our testers got 0.25-0.35mm meshes after installation, but the magnet can be sanded to get better results.

  • Magnet is the issue

    The magnets that are used in 3D printer are imperfect. the thickness of the
    magnet with the adhesive layer may vary withing 0.4mm range (+-0.2mm).
    Fortunately, these magnets can be sanded. Use this kind of sponge blocks grid
    180-240 to sand off any peaks on the mesh. With this trick our buyers could get
    their mesh from 0.44mm range down to 0.09mm.

  • Mount it right

    If you use the stock PRTouch bed probe then use the stock metal spacers to mount the bed. For other probes you may use springs with bed knobs which allow you to use the "Screw Tilt Adjust" for easy bed leveling.

  • Scratched Magnet

    If you see this kind of scratches on the magnet, it doesn't mean that it was damaged or used! It means, the magnet had imperfections and after taking a mesh, we helped you sanding it to make it flatter.

  • 220v

    If your voltage is 220v, then isolate and do not connect the wire for 110v, otherwise it may cause issues with the heater and relay.

  • Build plate alignment

    The graphite bed is thicker than the stock bed. For easier build plate alignment, we suggest printing the risers. You can download them on Makerworld CrealityCloud or Printables .

    Thanks to Stranula for designing them.

Installation Instructions:

Follow the official Creality video with a few different steps below

220V Connection:

1. Connect 2 white wires to N and 220B slots on SSR. Connect the yellow grounding wire to SSR (grounding wire has a ring terminal).

2. Isolate and DO NOT connect the 110v yellow wire.

3. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

110V Connection:

1. Connect 110v yellow wire (fork teminal) to N slot, connect 2 white wires together to 110B slot on SSR. Connect the yellow grounding wire to SSR (grounding wire has a ring terminal).

2. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

Rigid bed mounts

If you use stock bed probe (PRTouch) then use metal standoffs with M4*30 bolts.

Springs and knobs

If you use cartographer or other Eddy sensor bed probes, then you may use springs with M4*40 bolts with bed knobs for easy bed leveling using screw tilt adjust. You may buy the bed knobs or print the knobs from Printables.

Thermistor type

You need to make changes in printer.cfg file. Find heater_bed section and change senosr type to "sensore_type: Generic 3950".

You may change the max_temp to 130 to be able to heat up the bed to higher temperatures.

Temperature Error

If you see negative temperature readings and printer throws temperature errors, that means that you did not change the thermistor type in the config file. See the previous step.

PID Calibration

The heater is more powerful than the stock heater. You need to run PID calibration in console by copy/pasting the command: “PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=70”. Then SAVE and restart

Need help?

If you have question and/or need help, please, join D3vil Design Discord. We have lots of great people! You can find help, 3D printer mods and learn a lot about 3D printers and printing.