1 8

R3men

Graphite Heated Bed For Sovol SV08

Graphite Heated Bed For Sovol SV08

$222.00 AUD
$370.00 AUD $222.00 AUD
Sale Sold out

Low stock: 7 left

This is pre-order. Processing time: 10–15 days.

Graphite heatbed upgrade kit for Sovol SV08 3D printers

  • No warping: bed stays super flat at 120C as well as at 60C. No need to heatsink the bed for long time like aluminum beds.
  • Maximum bed temperature up to 140C.
  • 1000W Heater has an inbuilt 150C self-recovery thermal switch for safety.
  • Works with Eddy current sensors (Cartographer, Beacon, BTT Eddy).

    Included:
  • Pre-assembled Graphite Bed (with 1000W heater, magnet, grounding wire)
  • 4x M4 Bolts and nuts
  • 4x Metal standoffs
  • SSR
View full details

Advantages:

  • Zero warping

    These beds are much flatter than the stock ones and the main difference is that they keep the same shape at any temperature. These beds have been tested for over half a year at temps from 50C to 130C.

    That means: no heat soaking, no layer issues and first layer issues caused by bed warping.

  • 130C Bed Temperature

    These beds can be heated up to 130C, compared to 105 stock bed which warps like crazy over 100C. Heater has inbuilt 150C self-recovery switch for safety. You can use 115-120C bed temperature for better first layer adhesion and to reduce warping. Also, an add bed fans to help with chamber heating.

Useful information:

  • Graphite Flatness

    Every single graphite plate is tested for flatness with precision tools. All graphite plates are in the 0.1mm flatness range.

  • Bed Flatness

    The main advantage of this bed is zero warping. You don't need to waste time heat soaking the bed to avoid related print issues.

    The bed mesh depends on many things: z assembly, bed plate, bed magnet,
    gantry, probe, build plate etc. With all these factors you may have
    from 0.1 up to 0.5mm flatness mesh.

  • Flat mesh ≠ Perfect first layer

    Super flat mesh doesn't mean you get perfect first layer. And the other way around, not perfectly flat mesh doesn't mean you can't have a perfect first layer. We have a printer with 0.07mm range mesh and the first layer is terrible, because of the twisted gantry. To fix your issues with first layer we suggest using Axis Twist Compensation on both X and Y

  • Tested with Cartographer Probe

    Every single bed was tested and meshed with Cartographer probe after assembly, which is much more accurate than stock PRTouch. All meshes are 0.1-0.25mm flatness.

    But, again, mesh depends on your probe and your gantry!

    Some of our testers got 0.25-0.35mm meshes after installation, but the magnet can be sanded to get better results.

  • Magnet is the issue

    The magnets that are used in 3D printer are imperfect. the thickness of the
    magnet with the adhesive layer may vary withing 0.4mm range (+-0.2mm).
    Fortunately, these magnets can be sanded. Use this kind of sponge blocks grit
    60-80 to sand off any peaks on the mesh. With this trick our buyers could get
    their mesh from 0.44mm range down to 0.09mm.

  • Mount it right

    This bed was designed to be used without the plastic tray. You mount the bed with 4 bolts directly into the extrusions, using metal spacers that come with the bed.

Installation Instructions

Follow the official video to remove the stock bed:

220V Connection:

1. Connect RED (+) and BLACK (-) wires from the board bed heater port to the DC side of the SSR (Control 3-32 VDC).
One White wire connect to the SSR (Load side), the other White wire connect to PSU Neutral (N).
Connect PSU Live (L) to SSR.
Connect yellow and green grounding wire with PSU grounding.

2. Isolate with tape and DO NOT connect the 110v yellow wire.

3. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

110V Connection:

1. Connect RED (+) and BLACK (-) wires from the board bed heater port to the DC side of the SSR (Control 3-32 VDC).
Two White wires together connect to the SSR Output 2, the Yellow 110v wire connect to PSU Neutral (N).
Connect PSU Live (L) to SSR Output 1.
Connect yellow and green grounding wire to PSU grounding.

2. Connect thermistor to the mainboard.

Thermistor type

You need to make changes in printer.cfg file. Find heater_bed section and change senosr type to "sensor_type: NTC 100K MGB18-104F39050L32".

You may change the max_temp to 130 to be able to heat up the bed to higher temperatures.

PID Calibration

The heater is more powerful than the stock heater. You need to run PID calibration in console by copy/pasting the command: “PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=70”. Then SAVE and restart

Need help?

If you have question and/or need help, please, join D3vil Design Discord. We have lots of great people! You can find help, 3D printer mods and learn a lot about 3D printers and printing.

Check these out!